Join me for an unforgettable ride down the winding roads of the Vercors Massif in southeastern France
A region famed for its dramatic cliffs, deep gorges, and panoramic alpine views.
This descent is pure motorcycling bliss: sweeping bends, crisp mountain air, and scenery that demands your full attention.
The day started early with a 6:45 departure and, after nearly twelve hours on the move, I finally rolled up at the hotel at 17:45. The first stop of the morning was a McDonald’s breakfast – not glamorous, but it did the job. From there, we made our way down to the Eurotunnel, and just to keep things interesting, the heavens opened for the final three miles before boarding. Nothing like a proper soaking to kickstart a tour.
We caught the 10:24 train to Calais, bikes loaded up and spirits high despite the weather. Once off the train, the rain didn’t let up. Within an hour of riding through wet French roads, a hot coffee stop was not just welcome, it was essential. Warmed through, it was back in the saddle for the next leg – an hour and a half to my first fuel stop. These moments are as much about stretching the legs as they are about filling the tank, and with the rain still clinging to our visors, both felt overdue.
Thankfully, the skies finally broke on the last hour and a half into the hotel. Riding on dry roads after a day of constant rain felt like a reward in itself, and it lifted everyone’s spirits as we closed in on our stop. The hotel wasn’t anything fancy – basic but functional. After unpacking and shaking off the miles, the bar was calling. A few well-earned drinks carried us through until our dinner reservation at 20:30, the kind of meal that tastes ten times better when you’ve put in the road miles first.
By the end of the night, bed was a welcome sight. Tomorrow promises a dry day – at least if the forecast holds – and after today’s soaking, that feels like the biggest win of all.
Day two began at a steady pace with an 8 a.m. breakfast, giving us plenty of time to fuel up before our 10 a.m. departure. The skies looked uncertain, and sure enough, as we set off the roads were wrapped in a light misty rain. Nothing too heavy, but just enough to make us suit up in full wet gear. Riding in rain kit always feels like “boil in a bag” duty – sweaty on the inside, damp on the outside – but it’s part of the touring game.
The first hundred miles rolled by under that misty drizzle, steady progress without too much drama. By the second hundred, the clouds lifted, the rain eased, and we could finally strip off the waterproofs. The difference was immediate – dry roads, clear views, and that smooth rhythm of riding when everything just clicks. Spirits lifted, and the miles began to fly by.
For the last hundred miles, the weather kept us guessing. Dark clouds loomed overhead, threatening to open at any moment. Apart from the odd spit and spot, though, the rain held off and we made it through without a soaking. It turned out to be a surprisingly good stretch, a reminder that sometimes you just have to take your chances and ride it out.
The day ended on a high when we rolled into the hotel – far posher than what Bacon Tours usually books. Not only clean and comfortable, but with a swimming pool too. After a long day on the road, that felt like pure luxury. A solid day’s riding, mixed weather, and the promise of a proper wind-down. Exactly what makes these trips memorable.
Today was the much-anticipated ride along the legendary Combe Laval, also known as the Balcony Road. After a quick breakfast, we wasted no time getting the bikes ready and set off to track down the D76 – the stretch that winds its way through the Vercors mountains and delivers some of the most spectacular views you can find on two wheels.
The approach itself was a treat. Twisting mountain roads led us upward, each bend revealing fresh scenery. The conditions kept us on our toes though: sections baked dry by the morning sun suddenly gave way to damp, shaded patches. One moment the tyres were gripping perfectly, the next they were sliding ever so slightly across wet tarmac. It made for an exciting, if slightly cautious, run toward the main event.
Reaching the start of Combe Laval, it was hard to decide what to focus on – the riding itself or the incredible balcony views carved into the cliff face. The road clings dramatically to the mountainside, with tunnels and overhangs that make you feel both exhilarated and slightly on edge. Stopping at the viewpoints, we tried capturing it on camera, but as always, photos can’t quite do justice to the scale and drama of the place. It’s something you have to see with your own eyes to really appreciate.
The descent back down the mountain was a reward in itself. By then the roads had dried completely, letting us flow smoothly through the bends with confidence. It was the kind of riding that stays with you long after the day is done. Back at the hotel, the adventure wound down the best way possible – a few beers, a hearty dinner, and an early night. A perfect end to a day of world-class riding.
Today’s ride took us westbound on a loop through the Vercors, and I’ll admit, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from the route. That’s part of the magic of touring, though – sometimes the unknown roads deliver the best surprises.
The opening hour set the tone in the best way possible: sweeping bends that seemed to roll on forever, stretching across 60 glorious kilometres. It was the kind of riding where you fall into a rhythm, bike and rider working as one, the corners linking together like a perfectly drawn ribbon of tarmac. Speaking of tarmac, the road surface itself was pristine – smooth, fresh, and an absolute joy to ride. After days of mixed conditions, it was a welcome sight.
For a stretch we ended up behind a Polish truck driver who was clearly on a mission. He handled that rig like he’d stolen it, throwing it into bends with the kind of pace that made following him unexpectedly entertaining. It’s not often you say a truck adds to the ride, but today it did.
Halfway through, the satnav decided to spice things up by trying to push us down a gravel track. A road closure ahead had confused the routing, and while the idea of an off-road detour was tempting, it wasn’t what we’d come for. Decision made, we turned back and retraced our steps – which turned out to be a blessing. Riding the same stretch in the opposite direction gave us another chance to enjoy those incredible bends, this time from a whole new angle.
The day wrapped up back at the hotel, where the ritual of beers was duly observed. Dinner? Not fine dining tonight – just a cheeky Burger King. Sometimes, that’s exactly what hits the spot.